The beautiful island of Sri Lanka is a famous tourist destination for people around the world. A small island with beautiful beaches and lush landscapes is a true paradise for travelers. But there are other things besides beaches and landscapes that attract people from all over the world. The traditional essence of true Sri Lankan culture can be found in small towns and villages of the country. One of such places is the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. This is part of the “cultural triangle” along with Sigiriya, Anuradhapura, Kandy and Dambulla. It served as the capital for nearly 3 centuries between the 11th and 13th centuries AD and is an incredible place for a day trip.
A bit of history of the ruins of Polonnaruwa
About 800 years ago, the ancient city of Polonnaruwa was the commercial and religious center of Sri Lanka. It flourished for three centuries as the royal capital of both the Sinhala and Chol kingdoms. The Cholas appeared for the first time at the end of the 10th century, when the South Indian Chol dynasty conquered Sri Lanka.
Prior to this, Anuradhapura was the capital of Chol, but they decided to move to Polonnaruwa for two reasons. Not only because there were fewer mosquitoes, but they would also be better protected from attacks by the Sinhalese kingdom of Ruhunu in the southeast.
But in 1070, the Sinhala kingdom and its king Vijayabahu I went on the offensive. They overthrew the Chol dynasty and made the city of Polonnaruwa their capital. It was at this time of the Sinhalese rule that she reached her highest glory.
The second king Parakramabahu I successfully expanded the ancient city. Beautiful parks, a huge lake and many large buildings were built during his reign. The third king of Nisank Malla did not do his job very well and ultimately bankrupted the kingdom. This was at the beginning of the XIII century, when the fame of Polonnaruwa began to decline, until, finally, it was finally lost. Then the capital moved to where Colombo is today, and the ancient city became the ruins of Polonnaruwa.
Road to Polonnaruwa
How to get to Polonnaruwa? There are several options from which travelers can choose the most convenient for themselves. The city is located 216 km from Colombo and 66 km east of Dambulla.
- By plane. Hingurakgoda Airport is the closest. The only available flights are FitsAir from Colombo Ratmalan. There are more options from Sigiriya Airport.
- By car. This is the easiest way. You should definitely ask for Nissan Sunny or Toyota Corolla, otherwise they may not send the best car. The advantage is that tourists will travel with air conditioning all the way to Polonnaruwa, the road to which is quite pleasant with lots of greenery. Massive old trees tend to obscure the road when travelers leave urban areas, creating a canopy effect. The trip lasts from 5 to 6 hours, including breaks for food, fruit and shopping (although the prices of goods sold along the way are too high, so buying them is not recommended).
- By train. You need to take a train to Trincomalee at Fort Colombo station in Gal Oya to get to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka. The trip takes a lot of time, and the train leaves the station at 6:15.
- By bus. Buses also depart from Fort Colombo. You should choose a long-distance flight to Polonnaruwa and after 6-8 hours you can be there. From Anuradhapura, a direct bus runs from the bus station in the New City and runs during the day. The distance from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa is about 100 km, and a bus ride takes 3 hours. You can also get from Polonnaruwa to Kandy and back by bus. The distance between cities is 150 km, and the bus ride takes 4.5 hours. Tourists who are interested in how to get from Polonnaruwa to Kandy should remember that the bus stops in Dambulla.
Polonnaruwa Bus Station is located 4 km east of the main attractions, so if the hotel is nearby, you can ask the driver to drive closer (for example, to the clock tower).
Polonnaruwa: where to stay
Tourists do not need to worry about accommodation during their trip to Polonnaruwa. Here you can choose from more than 115 quality and affordable hotels, accommodating in which you can gladly start exploring the main attractions of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka. You can spend one night in a good hotel for just 1200 rubles. In Polonnaruwa there are 3 five-star hotels at an average price of 5,500 rubles per night, as well as 3 four-star hotels at an average price of 3,000 rubles per night and 4 three-star hotels at a price of 2,000 per night. There are not many well-known chain hotels in Polonnaruwa, but staying at a unique local hotel makes you feel at home.
Visit to the ancient city
The entrance fee to Polonnaruwa is 3,500 LKR (1,276 rubles). Tickets can be purchased at the Archaeological Museum. You should make sure that a free card is also issued with a ticket. After purchasing a ticket, you can visit the Polonnaruwa Museum for information before exploring the ruins themselves. The entrance to the museum is next to the box office.
According to reviews about Polonnaruwa, if you stay in a hotel in the city itself, then there is a chance to get into the ancient city before anyone else to avoid crowds of tourists and unbearable heat. It is also highly recommended to rent a bike for the whole day. This is the most relaxing and easiest way to tour the sights of Polonnaruwa.
The ancient city is open from 7.30 a.m. to 6 p.m. To the south of the main place there are two more small clusters of ruins, the so-called island zone of the park (next to the museum) and around Potgul Vihara, 1.5 km south. They are free to visit and open 24 hours.
The main entrance to the ruins of Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka (photo in the article), surprisingly, is not at the box office. You need to return to the main road and walk a few hundred meters to the east to find the main gate. They cannot be missed.
What to wear when visiting Polonnaruwa?
There are religious shrines and monuments in Polonnaruwa, so it is important to dress appropriately. The shoulders and knees should be covered by both men and women, and you will have to take off your shoes to enter the sanctuary, so it’s best to use shoes that are easy to put on and take off. Due to the weather in this area, the land becomes hot, so you should take a pair of socks with you so as not to burn your legs.
It should also be noted that photographing with your back to Buddha images or statues is prohibited on all monuments.
How much time to spend in Polonnaruwa?
Monuments in the ancient city are concentrated in one area, and the main attractions are pretty easy to see for 1 day, especially if you have a car. The main places are scattered along the one-way road. In reviews of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka, tourists are usually advised to spend the whole day for this excursion, since it can take more than one hour to explore the city.
There are no restaurants in the complex, so it is recommended to eat a hearty breakfast on the day of the tour, as well as take light snacks and water. However, you can go out at Rankot Vihara and have lunch at one of the nearby guest houses before returning in the afternoon.
The ruins occupy a much smaller area than in Anuradhapur, while the main attractions are located on a long line. This means that (unlike Anuradhapura) there is no problem finding a way or choosing the best order to see all the objects.
Sights of the ancient city
What to see in Polonnaruwa first? Today, the ruins of the city are mainly composed of many interesting temples and religious buildings. However, there are some other non-religious constructs of interest. It is recommended to rent a bicycle at the guest house so that you can visit the sights at any time.
The distance between each attraction is not too great, and the land, fortunately, is flat. This makes cycling very enjoyable and not too difficult in the heat. If cycling is not suitable, then there are many guides who are ready to take tourists by taxi, including those with air conditioning.
There are an incredible number of monuments located next to each other. And it is better to visit them in this order to make the most of your time in the ancient city. Monuments are listed here as they are named on the official map of the Central Fund for Culture, but if you use Google maps, some monuments can be recorded in a slightly different way.
Start at the Archaeological Museum
Before you enter the archaeological site, you will need to buy a ticket at the box office. The Archaeological Museum is also located in the same building, where tourists can learn about the history and excavations of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka (photo in the article).
Being here, it is recommended to use the toilet, since it is not so easy to find in the complex. Outside the box office there are many guides that you can hire if you need someone to show the ancient city and tell a story.
Royal Palace, Citadel and Kumar Pokuna
It was believed that once it was a very large building (7 floors high). Now, only the foundation remains from the Royal Palace. The red brick walls of the palace are still standing, and when you walk along them, you can recognize the audience hall. It is assumed that at the very beginning it included the royal chambers, official premises, parks and baths. Kumara Pokuna is an example of a royal bath made entirely of stone.
The Royal Auditorium Hall is another beautiful attraction of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka, where you can wander around and explore the best-preserved buildings in the Royal Palace. With huge elephants carved on the stones of the walls, each sculpted elephant is in a distinctive position, which makes them detached from each other. The staircase to the Auditorium Hall is absolutely magnificent with wonderful lions placed at the highest point of each side.
Holy Quadrangle
The quadrangle, without a doubt, is the highlight of Polonnaruwa: a small fenced building, 100 m wide, filled with many ancient monuments of various shapes, sizes and styles. Originally known as Dalada Maluva (the "Tooth Terrace of Buddha"), this place was home to the precious Buddha Tooth during the glory of Polonnaruwa and was central to the religious and ceremonial life of the city.
Entering the Quadrangle, visitors' eyes will probably be turned to the stunning Watadaj - an exquisite round temple richly decorated with carvings and moonstones and controlled by a quartet of Buddhas, although now they have lost the roof that once covered them. The four sets of steps leading to the shrine are especially carefully thought out, penetrated by carved images of two-tone lions, macaques and other animals, both real and mythical.
It is said that Khadadaj, located opposite Wataj, got its name as a result of the fact that it was built in just 60 hours (a hut). The temple may have once contained a Tooth Relic, although no one is sure of it. There is no doubt that the temple was built by Nissankamalla, who placed a long stone inscription directly under the main doorway for this.
The Khatadazh inscription, however, pales in comparison with the neighboring Gal Pota - the name means “Stone Book” (although it looks more like an encyclopedia, if not a whole library), including a huge slab cut out of granite 9 m long with an inscription praising the works, character and the overall all-round brilliance of his Royal Highness Nissankamalla. The stone allegedly weighs 25 tons and was brought from Mihintale, about 90 km.
Next to Gal Pota is the unusual satmahal Prasada, a ziggurat-style temple that is completely unlike anything else in Sri Lanka and looks more like a Cambodian one.
On the other side of Khatadaj, Parakramabahu built a modest Atadaj to house the Buddha's Tooth. Continuing clockwise, you can reach the tiny but very elegant little Mandap lotus with an unusual stone fence and delicately curved columns.
Continuing counterclockwise, you can reach the last and one of the largest shrines of the Quadrangle, a very solid looking Thuparama, like a huge stone box with thick walls decorated with carvings of vimanas, mythical houses of the gods.
North of the quadrangle
Heading north from the Quadrangle, visitors will find another Hindu shrine: the small Indian-style Shiva Devale No. 2, the oldest building in Polonnaruwa. Not far from the ruins of Pabul Vihara is the third largest stupa in the city, although most of its upper half has now disappeared.
Further, ancient Hindu temples are grouped around the North Gate, including shrines dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Ganesha. Moving north, it will be impossible to miss the majestic Rankot Viharu, the largest stupa on Polonnaruwa, a mighty mass of stone, built by order of Nissankamalla by Tamil prisoners of war.
Alahan Pariven Complex
The Alahan Pariven complex was founded by King Parakramabahu. The monastery complex includes the house of Baddhasim Prasad, a statue and frescoes in Lankathilak, and the sparkling white stupa of Kiri Vehera.
Past Rankot Vihara you can go to the Alahan Pariven district, which was once home to the largest monastery in the city. The highlight is the high Lankatilaka (“Pearl of Lanka”), an unusually high and narrow shrine, in which there is a huge, but now headless Buddha, with further complex images of heavenly vimanas on the external walls.
To the north of Lankatilaki is Kiri Vihara (“The Temple of Milk”), named after the snow-white stucco that once covered her large mortar, although now it has become dirty gray. On the opposite (southern) side of Lankatilaki, Buddha Sima Pasada served as a monastery assembly house with four beautiful moonstones at each entrance and urns on pillars (a symbol of plenty) in the outer courtyard.
Gal Vihara
Further north, Gal Vihara is (along with a quadrangle) the undoubted landmark of Polonnaruwa: a street sculpture gallery with four huge and exquisite Buddhas carved from low rock outcrop. The star attraction is a huge 14-meter reclining Buddha, one of the characteristic images of the island, its calm, superhuman features, decorated with thin stone stripes. Next to him is a thoughtfully looking Buddha, followed by two seated figures, each of whom sits on elaborately carved backgrounds depicting various gods in their heavenly dwellings.
To enter Gal Vihara, you must again present a ticket, so you should make sure that it is not lost. This stone shrine consists of a group of stone sculptures on which the Buddha sits, stands and lies. A standing Buddha statue is especially rare, as it shows the Buddha's hands on his chest, which is not often seen. Gal Vihara, also known as Gal Viharya, was formerly called Uttararama. It is part of Polonnaruwa Park and one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Central Province of Sri Lanka.
Farther north
A kilometer from Gal Vihara, the giant Demala Maha Seya was supposed to be the largest stupa in the world, although, unfortunately, it was not finished, and now all that can be seen is a huge base covered with vegetation, more like a natural hill than on an artificial structure.
Demala Maha Seiya - a huge unfinished stupa located in Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka.
It is called "Demala", as it has two levels. Construction was begun by King Parakramabahu between 1153 and 1186. It was planned in such a way as to create the largest stupa in the world. However, it was never completed, and later a small stupa was built on it. Due to this and the fact that the road leading to this place is in disrepair, not many tourists visit this place. Most of the stupa is covered with trees and shrubs. You should visit this place to explore the architecture of the past millennium.
Southern attractions
Near the Polonnaruwa Museum are the remains of the royal palace complex of Nissankamalla. The most interesting is the beautiful Council Hall (similar to the one in the Citadel). The roof has long been gone, but a solid stone base and various columns have survived, with an impressive, albeit caricature-looking lion, at one end.
About 1.5 km south is Potgul Vihara, which is a circular shrine (or possibly a library), surrounded by other monastic ruins. Nearby is an impressive stone statue, which is said to be the image of the most bearded Parakramabahu holding a manuscript of palm leaves or the “Book of the Law,” although another theory claims that it is actually fruit.
This is a square building with an excellent railing design in the old town of Polonnaruwa. This unique building was built by King Nissak Mall in the Dalad Maluw area, which includes the most sacred and oldest monument in the city. In ancient times, this place was used to read Buddhist scriptures. The building is an elevated stone platform with numerous columns surrounded by a low stone wall. In the middle of the platform there is a small stupa with a carved figured base. Nyssanka Latha Mandapaya has many statues and pagodas in its arena.
Departing a little to the north, you can find a lotus pond, named after its unique shape. Once it was used by monks for swimming, and its tiers provided them with seating.
Best excursions in Polonnaruwa
One can only be surprised that an ancient city in the northern province of Sri Lanka can please tourists from all walks of life. Polonnaruwa has so many interesting things, from cultural attractions to historical sites, adventures, natural attractions and spiritual events, that travelers will come back here again and again.
This place is certainly a treasure for photography lovers and bloggers.
- National Parks of Minneria or Caudulla. It’s not difficult to go on a safari to the national parks of Minneria or Caudella from Polonnaruwa, which are especially popular for their elephant population. A guest house or a hotel where tourists are accommodated can book safari for them very easily.
- Parakrama Samudra (Sea of Parakrama). Built by King Parakramabahu, this is the largest old man-made rainwater reservoir in Sri Lanka overlooking the western part of Polonnaruwa. The significant storage is located in the area of 2500 hectares and has a volume of 134 million cubic meters. This reservoir is an irrigation source for the agricultural region of Polonnaruwa and its environment.
- Sigiriya. In fact, Sigiriya is an ancient stone palace, based in the northern region of Matale, near the city of Dambulla. The fortress was built on top of a cliff, decorated with bright frescoes, and its gate is made in the form of a giant lion. You need to visit various types of garden here. Sigiriya is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that offers the best views of early urban planning. This place reveals the archaeological wonders of Sri Lanka urban planning, architecture, art and hydraulic technology.
- Bicycle rides. You can explore the old city, rolling along the streets going from north to south. Bicycles can be rented at stalls in the city for the whole day. Cycling along the roads of Polonnaruwa is an easy journey, since all significant places are indicated, however, in English. But it will be difficult enough to lose your path or roll on rough dirt roads, since all the streets are aligned.
- Sanctuary of Somavati Chaitiya. The Somawathie Chaitiya Sanctuary in Polonnaruwa (photos are excellent here) is a nature reserve that is revered by Sri Lankan Buddhists as a sacred place. The meeting place attracts thousands of believers, being an ancient stupa in the middle of the sanctuary. It is believed that the stupa was built in the II century BC, in which the remains of the Buddha are embodied. The boundaries of the temple cover large fields where you can see a huge herd of wild elephants.
- House of the image of Tiwanka. Thivanka Image House is one of the largest brick structures in Polonnaruwa, which houses a Buddha statue called Tivanka, for its extraordinary element, curved at three points on the shoulders, on the waist and on the knees. This is really a different kind of Buddha statue that cannot be seen anywhere else. The statue is surrounded by a two-layer plastered wall, emphasizing wall paintings.
- Angammedilla National Park. It is a mixture of dry evergreen forests in Sri Lanka. Although it is not a very large forest, it boasts a huge variety of flora and fauna. If you want to find a place for a relaxing holiday among the greenery, you should go to the Angammedilla National Park.
- Village tour with fishing and Sri Lankan lunch. This tour will allow you to explore the enchanting countryside of Polonnaruwa, riding a tractor, going fishing and enjoying a genuine Sri Lankan lunch in a village house. You can spend some time in the village house and enjoy a culinary experience.