Shirt is a universal type of men's clothing. It is difficult to imagine a man who does not have at least one shirt. Classic, sporty, casual, for a festive occasion or a stylish party, shirts go to everyone without exception.
First shirts
Men's shirts appeared in the era of antiquity. White color, the most common, symbolized the purity of the soul and body, because the underwear was a mandatory attribute and was only white. Over time, from a shirt, she transformed into casual clothes that are worn directly on the body. Even among the nobility, for a long time, a shirt was considered valuable property, was inherited and carefully stored. And in Russia, embroidered shirts were passed down from generation to generation - shirts embroidered in “weak spots” carried the strength of the family and protection from evil spirits.
Varieties of shirts
Men's shirts, in addition to dividing by style, still have many differences in cut. So, there are shirts with a stand-up collar, a turn-down collar, fitted and classic. Slim fit shirts (models for athletics) allow you to wear them without a jacket, under a cardigan, or just with trousers or jeans.
Even cuffs are on shirts with buttons or under cufflinks, French.
The fasteners on the shirts are also different:
- on the bar - when the shirt is framed by a separate decorative strip of fabric on which buttons are sewn;
- secret - buttons are sewn on a secret level, and loops are hidden inside the fabric;
- ordinary - the strap is folded and the buttons are sewn onto the fabric.
Sewing shirts
It is believed that only women are difficult to please. However, many men are very demanding in choosing shirts. It is necessary that you like everything - the collar model, buttons, seams, cut. You can please the strong half and sew the shirt yourself.
Work begins with the choice of fabric. Depending on what style the shirt will be, a print on the fabric and the quality of the fabric should be chosen.
For a classic shirt, expensive, smooth fabrics are recommended - cotton, linen, silk, satin. The colors are preferable calm, let's say a small picture. But for sports-style shirts, coarser and denser materials are appropriate - flannel, fleece, jeans, viscose.
The construction of a pattern of a man’s shirt begins with taking measurements.
Taking measurements
In order to make measurements correctly, the centimeter must pass along the tailor lines - special directions, taking measurements on which will ensure the correct product parameters.
OSH - neck circumference. The measure is removed at the bottom of the collar. For freedom of fit and proper fit between the tape and the neck, a finger is laid.
OG - chest circumference. Measure should be taken in the widest part of the chest and back. In this case, the value should be maximum.
FROM - waist circumference. The waistline is the narrowest point between the ribs and the line of the pelvis. For convenience, a man puts his hands on his belt. In the most comfortable place for him, the measurement is taken. A tape is tied at the waist line, it is useful for further measurements.
ABOUT - hips. Men's shirts are longer than women's. For proper fit, the thigh circumference is measured.
SH - chest width. Under the arms for convenience, a man can hold two rulers. A centimeter measures the distance from point to point in those places where the rulers go under the arm.
ShS - back width. It is measured in the same position from the back.
- shoulder width. Measured from the point of attachment of the shoulder to the neck to the end of the shoulder line.
DR - sleeve length. Measured from the point of attachment of the shoulder to the neck to the first phalanx of the thumb.
OR - girth of the hand. Measures the girth of the biceps.
OZ - girth of the wrist. The girth of the wrist is measured.
DIZD - product length. It is measured from the protruding vertebra in the cervical region to the gluteal fold, if the shirt is supposed to be of a classic cut.
Accident - the length of the waist before. Measured from the point of attachment of the shoulder to the neck to the ribbon at the waist through the chest.
TPA - the length of the waist back. A similar measurement on the back.
Sleeve pattern
The most time-consuming part in constructing a shirt pattern is the formation of the correct sleeve pattern. The pattern of a men's shirt with a long sleeve is built according to the standard scheme.
The sleeve of the shirt differs from the set-in depth of the okat. The wider the shape, the smaller the height of the okata.
For construction, the parameters of measurements taken previously are used.
Two perpendicular lines are drawn on a sheet of A3 or A2 format (the main thing is to fit a sleeve, you can even use a newspaper). Point O1 is marked in the center.
The height of the okat of a soft form for a classic shirt is about 8 - 10 cm. A segment of 10 cm is laid up from the point O1, the point O2 is marked.
To the right of O1 and to the left are the segments equal to the half-girth of the arm = OP / 2. Points P1 and P2 are marked.
The smooth line connects the points O2 and P1 and P2.
The length of the sleeve is laid down from O2. Point M is marked.
Sleeve width is a line perpendicular to the O2M segment. M1M2 = wrist width. From M to the right and to the left, half the girth of the wrist is laid. The lines are connected.
It turns out the pattern of the sleeve of a man’s shirt. The finished sleeve sits on the armhole.
In order to avoid mistakes, the cut out parts of the product are first cleaved with pins on a mannequin or person, the shapes are adjusted, and only then stitched together.
Cuffs
To complete the sleeve, a cuff pattern is built. To do this, rectangles are drawn, one of which ends with an acute angle.
A classic button cuff is equal in width to the circumference of the wrist, and in height it may depend on the preferences of the wearer - height from 5 to 7 cm.
Shirt shirt
A distinctive feature of the Kosovorotka is that the cut for the collar is not in the middle, but on the side.
The pattern of a man's shirt shirts is a set of rectangles. To build a pattern, a large rectangle is drawn with a height equal to the length of the front product, and a width equal to the circumference of the chest. The second rectangle - the back, is constructed similarly, according to the parameters of the back.
A sleeve is attached next to a large rectangle - the length is equal to the length of the sleeve, the width is the width of the arm. These parts are symmetrical both on the back and in front of the product.
For freedom of fitting, a small side rectangle is built, equal to the width of the side. The width is measured with a centimeter in the place where the ruler is clamped.
An incision is made in the front of the braid to the left or right of the gate. It is trimmed with braid or decorative material. The length of the incision is equal to POG - semi-girth of the head.
Shirt decoration
Men's shirts can be decorated in different ways. Concert shirts embroider with beads, stones, sequins. For a classic cut, original cuffs or a collar are appropriate. Buttons are sewn both classic, to the tone of the rabies, and unusual, colored or original shapes. The loops are sewn with colored thread to contrast with the main fabric. As an additional element, the pattern of a man’s shirt may contain a chest pocket.
The best decoration for a man’s shirt is a properly constructed pattern. Men's shirts or shirts - any product look depends on the quality of tailoring and processing.
For example, a correctly selected collar to the type of face can visually emphasize the cheekbones or make the chin more masculine.