Today we’ll talk about installing the Tomahawk alarm. The instruction will be brought to you in the most accessible language. At the end of the installation, we will receive car protection and remote start of the motor. All procedures will be performed on a Mazda. But, as you understand, the principle of installing this alarm on other cars is almost identical, with the exception of some nuances associated with the features of a particular model, which can be found in the operating literature that comes with cars.
Siren
The first step is to install a siren in the engine compartment. Please note that it should be located as far as possible from sources of elevated temperature, not exposed to moisture, not create obstacles during repair work, and also the speaker must be placed in the direction of the ground.
We continue to install the Tomahawk alarm. The manual recommends further mounting the hood end cap. Here you can use any hole that would be suitable for this purpose. Make sure that the limit switch has enough free movement from below and does not rest anywhere, and also ensure reliable contact.
temperature sensor
Next, we must install a temperature sensor, which will be required in order to be able to automatically warm up the car. How to set up the Tomahawk alarm for this, we are not yet considering, because now we need to complete the installation. This sensor should ideally be screwed to the cylinder block. This will make it possible to determine a more accurate coolant temperature. When it is installed, connect the black wire to the "mass" of the car, and the light should be soldered to the one that moves away from the hood end cap (orange-gray).
Antenna
The next step in the installation of the Tomahawk alarm is the installation of the antenna. The best place for this, according to many, is the upper left corner on the windshield. After the antenna, install the LED where you prefer.
Now move on to more complex actions. The dashboard, bottom cover and steering column trim are removed . Next - the signal cable to open the central lock must be shorted to ground directly, but the closing wire closes to it, only through resistance (no more than 1.5 kOhm).
Connecting central locks
Now you need to bring in the proper form of the central locking connector . Cut or simply rewind the black-blue and black-green wires, as they will not be involved. But to green you need to solder the resistance with heat shrink. Further, what we got is necessary to solder with a blue wire, and the gray-blue and gray-green are twisted and soldered together. Now, with the help of electrical tape, everything is compactly fixed.
We "dive" under the central panel and find the relay of the central locks. As a rule, there are three of them, and we are interested in the biggest. Next, take a gray wire with silver stripes and solder to the connector. The second, respectively, is connected to the "mass".
Now we take the main connection connector (18 PIN) and connect the wire that goes to the stops. As a rule, it is green with a white stripe. Next, under the tidy we find three connectors: two on the left, one on the right. Solder the wires there according to the scheme, after which we isolate them. In the same area, using a double-sided tape, we fix the shock sensor.
Now get the diagram of your ignition switch. There are two connectors, one of which is four wires, the other two. In the first one, blue-black is the starter, blue is on IG1, red-black is on IG2, white-black is on ACC. The two-wire connector consists of two wires + 12V.
Remote start
We connect the power connector from the remote start: blue-black to yellow-black, while this connector should be between the interlock relay and the starter. Then white-black to blue, blue to yellow from the connector, black-red to green from the same connector, and, finally, black to the red wire of the connector (thin with thick). Reds are the last thing to do.
At this point, it is not necessary to solder the interlock relay wiring to the remote start power connector. It is enough just to insulate. After installing the aforementioned relay, you need to cut the blue-black wire. Since the relay has the numbering of connectors, we look carefully so that the starter wire is connected to 87A, but 30 and 86 should fit on the wire to the ignition switch. Yellow-black, which comes from the main connector of the alarm unit, is also connected to 85. Well, 87 remains superfluous.
Now all these connectors must be connected to the central unit, after which we connect the alarm to the car battery. As you understand, before starting this procedure, the power source must be disconnected to prevent short circuit and fire wiring.
We proceed to the next step in installing our Tomahawk alarm. The manual suggests programming key fobs. This must be done so that the alarm can see them. When this item is completed, we proceed to the verification. To start, test the autorun. If the test was successful, we proceed to testing the central lock. If not, we return to the previous paragraphs.
Doors
When the checks are completed, you will find that, despite the closed doors of the car, the key fob reports that they are open. This is because you and I have not yet installed limit switches on the door. This is done similarly to installing the trailer on the hood. We talked about this at the very beginning, so it makes no sense to tell it all over again.
When the doors are sorted out, we proceed to the final actions. Now it is necessary to solder and insulate the power wires that pass to the ignition switch, as well as to the interlock relay. Next, you need to carefully lay out the wires and wind them in such a way that they do not stick out anywhere and do not interfere with anything. Do not allow them to come into contact with sharp or pointed objects or surfaces, as the latter can damage the insulation layer.
Now we fix the main unit, return the tidy and other panels to their places. We check again the operation of our alarm. After that, configure, as you need, the shock sensor and other functions of interest to you. It is fair to say that in this way both the Tomahawk 7010 alarm (the instruction is almost identical) and the 9010 can be set.