The 700-km high-mountain asphalt highway - the Pamir Highway - is a great route for automobile or bicycle travel if you prefer to spend your free time exploring the world around you. Those who decide to choose this type of vacation will have interesting adventures against the backdrop of majestic mountain landscapes of incredible beauty.
Description
The Great Pamir Highway (see photo below) is a highway connecting Dushanbe with the Kyrgyz city of Osh. It is customary to divide it into two parts. The first is the Western Pamir Highway. This is a pretty decent highway that can be accessed from the capital of Tajikistan to Khorog, the administrative center of Gorno-Badakhshan. As for the second, eastern part, there are many difficult sections on the road leading to Osh.
History
The need for a road connecting the Alai and Ferghana valleys arose in the mid-90s of the year before last, after the annexation of these lands to the Russian Empire. The work was carried out by the sapper units and was successfully completed, despite the great difficulties that the soldiers had to overcome under the leadership of Lt. Col. Bronislav Grombichevsky, engineers Mitskevich, Burakovsky and Zarakovsky, as well as lieutenant Irmut. In the 1930s, the road, which is now known as the Eastern Pamir Highway, was continued to Khorog, and later a western section was built to Dushanbe. The discovery of the latter took place in 1940, and it was named after Stalin.
condition
Unfortunately, the collapse of the USSR and the civil war in Tajikistan led to the fact that from year to year a significant part of the Great Pamir Highway is gradually deteriorating. Moreover, the process of road destruction over the past few years has accelerated due to the permission to move heavy trucks from the PRC along this route, which has led to intensive operation of the highway, which was not designed for this.
Since a significant part of the Great Pamir Highway is quite deserted, and there are no gas stations on it, those who travel by car are advised to have a canister with fuel in the trunk, as they say, just in case of fire. It is categorically not recommended to choose such a route for people who have recently been driving and are unable to cope with minor repairs of the “iron horse”, because, depending on the time of year, in case of breakdowns, they will have to wait for help for more than one hour.
Trip from Dushanbe to Khorog
The Western Pamir Highway in a jeep can be overcome in about 18 hours. Such a trip with a local driver will cost 200 somon. One of its advantages is the absence of the need to negotiate an overnight stay with the residents of the villages, as those who carry tourists usually have friends on the highway who are ready to shelter them along with their clients. The route runs along the valley of the Vakhsh river to the village of Kalai-Khumb. Then you need to overcome the Khaburabot pass, located at an altitude of 3 720 m. After that, the path will go along the Obihingou River valley. There are several villages with guesthouses where you can stay for a vacation
Further, a significant part of the path runs along the banks of the Pyanj River. It flows along the border with Afghanistan, so tourists can study life from the car window in the villages of the country, where the civil war continues and hundreds of terrorists of all stripes are hiding. At the same time, for the sake of justice, it should be noted that what was said applies mainly to areas in the central and southern parts of this Islamic Republic.
Eastern Pamir highway by car or bicycle: the beginning of the journey
Such a trip usually begins with the city of Khorog, which is located on the territory of Gorno-Badakhshan (Tajikistan) and is its capital. There is a small airport capable of receiving Yak-40 aircraft, although mostly the small An-28 flies there.
Since you have to make a dangerous turn before landing, flights to Khorog are carried out only in perfect weather. In the city, travelers can take a break at the hotel, as well as stock up on local shops and traditional bazaars.
Road
After Khorog, the highway goes up and down. After several tens of kilometers, the asphalt pavement ends. Along the road, travelers can find Buddhist caves and the ruins of ancient fortresses. For example, in a small village of Yamchun, after turning into the mountains, they have to overcome a sharp rise leading to ancient fortifications, the inspection of which can be a pleasure to history buffs. In addition, nearby they will have the opportunity to halt and plunge into hot mineral springs, water from which helps to get rid of joint pain and cures infertility. At least, local residents say that they do not recommend taking such baths for more than a quarter of an hour, in order to avoid problems with well-being.
Where to spend the night
Those who decide to drive the Pamir Highway by bike or car will have no problem deciding where to stop after sunset. Overnight in those parts will be offered to them in any house, as the locals are extremely positive about tourists. In this case, you should behave modestly and not try to dictate your rules. In particular, guests need to be prepared for what they are offered to go to bed on the floor and eat with their hands. At the same time, people familiar with local traditions argue that it would be nice if in the morning travelers, as a token of gratitude, leave to the hospitable owners an amount of $ 10 per member of their company.
The road to Alichur
After the village of Langar, for 70 kilometers the road passes through a desert area, not far from which are the peaks of Karl Marx and Engels with a height of 6,723 and 6,507 m, respectively. This is one of the most difficult sections of the path, which in winter is almost impossible to overcome.
Then the main asphalt road of the Pamir Highway will begin again, from where it is easy to get to the picturesque Yashil-Kul Lake. Next to it, at an altitude of 3,700 m, is the village of Bulunkul, where you can relax in one of the guest houses. There are also mineral springs and a small geyser around the lake.
The path to the lake Karakul
Starting from the village of Alichur, the Pamir Highway passes through the territory of ethnic Kyrgyz, so tourists will meet yurts and people in traditional white hats. After 80 km they will pass the village of Murghab, whose inhabitants breed yaks, and after 25 km they will drive up to the Eli-Su mineral hot springs. Next to them are yurts with pools, where guests are offered a fairly comfortable stay.
Further, the road goes in the direction of the border with China, and then turns to Karakul Lake with cold brackish water, which is surrounded by a chain of mountains and white salt marshes.
Traveling along the Pamir Highway: Kyrgyzstan
Having crossed a small checkpoint, motorists or cyclists will leave Tajikistan. Further, their path will pass through the territory of Kyrgyzstan. There, tourists will have to drive the worst part of the route, which is almost impassable in rainy weather due to slippery clay. In a few hours, they will be in the city of Osh, which is the final destination of the Eastern Pamir Highway. There travelers will find a comfortable stay and the opportunity to take advantage of all the benefits of civilization that they were deprived of during the trip. If desired, they can continue the trip and go to Bishkek, the distance to which along the M43 highway is 700 km.
Now you know what awaits you if you decide to choose the Great Pamir Highway as the place for your bicycle or car trip.