The Dolce Gabanna collection autumn-winter 2012-2013 presented a novelty in the world of shoes. On the stage of the catwalk, models were brought on whose feet flaunted perforated shoes in a male manner. Feminine images of fashion models were complemented by restrained pointed-toed oxford and derby. As it turned out, girls can provide elegance in the wardrobe with shoes without a heel. Now, previously created for men, derby shoes have become a universal attribute in the closet of every modern fashionista.
Where are the roots from?
Few people who come to the store are looking for a specific type of shoe according to the classification of lacing or perforation. This is especially true for men. If a person needs shoes, then he follows them and initially visually, and then, during the fitting, selects the suitable option. And those young people and girls who follow the latest in fashion, understand the classification of shoes and its history, go on trying on with the goal of acquiring oxfords, loafers, monks or derby.
In fact, all these names and types of shoes that came into being were formed in the 19th century. Derby - shoes, photos and descriptions of which were published in St. Petersburg magazine Crispin's (dated 1872) - have long won a lot of fans.
Another historical event is associated with the appearance of the derby and their second name in England - “Bluers”. This is the creation of boots for the army by the Prussian Marshal. During the Napoleonic Wars, Officer Blucher decided to put his army in comfortable boots that would fit the warrior’s foot of any width and were easy to put on and take off.
What is the feature?
A simple layman reading this article may ask: “How to find this popular derby shoe in all its variety on shoe shelves?” To answer this question, you do not need to be a professional in tailoring shoes, but you should know some of their details.
Bertsa is an element of shoes on which laces and buckles are placed. He accounts for the design of shoes on the back of the foot. It is not much exposed to wear during operation, in comparison with the vamp, which covers the upper part of the foot.
The main feature of derby shoes is their open type of lacing, compared with a similar model of shoes - oxfords, characterized by a closed lacing. Without looking at the images of two classic shoes, it is hard to imagine their appearance.
If you analyze the specifics of tailoring oxford and derby, it can be seen that in the first version, the vamp is sewn on top of the berets. That is, a derby is shoes (the photo of which is presented on the left foot in the picture above), which has false sides sewn over the front of the product.
Derby is a classic type of shoe with lacing
There is an opinion that shoes that fit the suit are a strict option for shoes. Now the assortment of classic models is so diverse that it makes it possible to wear them not only with ironed pants, but also jeans and even shorts. The main thing when choosing clothes is to be aware of the classification of classic shoes, the criteria for which are perforation and lacing.
The presence of lacing is a sign of business shoes. If it is absent, then shoes are suitable for informal meetings.
Tailcoat, tuxedo and classic suit are usually complemented with strict oxfords. Depending on the color performance, derby - men's shoes - can be an attribute of both office and informal style. Monks and loafers belong to the cordless type of classic shoes. A characteristic feature of loafers is the presence of decorative elements in the form of leather tassels. Monks are equipped with buckles.
Perforation
Any type of classic shoes mentioned in the previous section can be supplemented with perforated elements. In this case, the shoes are called brogues. The shoes of farmers in Ireland are considered to be the sources of perforation, which they began to break through to divert water from the foot. Now, through-hole perforations have migrated to men's and women's shoes. It is important to know that shoes decorated with such elements are not suitable for official meetings.
A feature of brogers is a detachable toe (toe) and perforated seams of the shoe parts to be connected. Depending on the area occupied by the punching elements, 4 types of shoes are distinguished : without perforation, half-brogues, quarter brogues and fully perforated shoes.
Women's derby: shoes, photo
After the First World War, when many of the men didn’t return from the front, many problems fell on women's shoulders. In connection with these changes, the image of a fragile woman acquired masculine features. Pantsuits, dresses and skirts above the knee, cropped hair, dark eyes let down - all these signs have become fundamental in the formation of the “garcon” style, in the modern interpretation of the familiar to everyone as unisex.
Men's style in women's shoes became popular about 3 years ago. So, shoes with laces from different materials and in various color combinations appeared. Derby - women's shoes - unlike men's counterparts, have a heel up to 5 cm and a bright design. For example, there are models of beige derby with a dark detachable toe and black laces or in general with a floral print. That is, female models of derby in color are bolder than men's restrained analogues of shoes.
Derby (shoes): what to wear?
Black shoes with lacing, without decorative tassels and perforated patterns are considered an integral attribute of a protocol suit. By the way, socks for official meetings are also selected taking into account the color of pants or shoes. As for the lacquered performance of shoes, for a man's image such shoes will become appropriate for a festive event, but not for everyday wear. In a women's wardrobe, patent leather derby shoes need a careful definition of the outfit. These 7/8 skinny pants go well with similar shoes, featuring a sophisticated ankle that is not hidden by socks or golfs.
Favorite jeans will perfectly complement suede derby. Since jeans do not belong to a business image, you can choose shoes in bright colors.
The lack of a high heel does not mean at all that the shoes in the style of "Garzon" are not suitable for dresses or skirts. Interestingly, derby can be worn with or without pantyhose.
Customer reviews
Since a strong part of humanity is less talkative, it is very difficult to find eloquent reviews about the convenience of shoes with an open type of lacing. Whether it’s the case to go to the women's forum, where all the qualities of derby shoes are painted!
A positive feature of such shoes is its convenience. The absence of studs and narrowed socks allows you to wear a derby, while feeling comfort in the foot. The second advantage of the shoes is an unusual design made in the men's style. Derby has become an excellent replacement for ballet shoes, moreover, with a thicker sole, which makes them indispensable shoes for cold rainy autumn.
Women also noted the fact of universality in the selection of clothes. They can be combined with a business bow and a casual casual.
However, all of these advantages can be negated by disgusting quality. Therefore, before purchasing, happy derby owners recommend using tips on choosing quality shoes.
Cost
The brand, the quality of the basic material, the presence of decorative elements and the uniqueness of the design are the components of the price of any shoe. As of November 2015, men's derby shoes have a run-up in value from 5300 rubles to 11300 rubles, women's shoes - from 3000 rubles to 7000 rubles.
If we turn to foreign sites, then the top models of well-known companies cost from 1000 cu From China, you can get a package with fashionable shoes by paying 1,500 rubles.